The history of the suburbs of Butetown and Cardiff Bay

View a map of Butetown from 1901

Butetown was barren moor land until the late 1800's, when the 2nd Marquis of Bute decided to build the first dock in Cardiff. The dock opened in 1839, but unfortunately the Marquis never lived long enough to see how successful the dock would be, and passed away in 1848. is infant son, John Crichton-Stuart, became the 3rd Marquis of Bute. John continued his Father's dream of making Butetown a respectable, middle-class suburb. The houses were mainly occupied by sea captains & merchants with Ferry Road being particularly well known for it's fine houses.

Offices with stunning architecture were built in Mount Stuart Square and Loudoun Square for powerful people and companies. The town attracted many sailors looking to spend their wages on food, a keepsake for their wife or to indulge in some of the more seedy activities that Butetown offered! Race Riots sometimes broke out and the seamen's strike of 1911 was particularly vicious, as Chinese laundries and lodging houses were set ablaze, while white people felt their living was under threat from blackleg labour.

Unfortunately, during the decline of coal exports in the late 0's Butetown, which now had a unsustainable population, began to suffer from the effects of mass unemployment. It became dirty, noisy and crime levels were rising. As a result, the wealthier of it's inhabitants moved to the more reputable suburbs in Cardiff, and in their place arose a multi-ethnic community formed by people from all over the world.

The Water Tower, and the Millennium Centre

The docks acquired the nickname 'Tiger Bay' and Greek, Arab, Chinese, African, Irish and French people were just some of the many people you could find on Bute Road (now Bute Street) in a single hour!

Another person who was easily found on Bute Road, was Tommy Letton. A familiar face in the area, Tommy sold fresh fish in the street from his barrow.

He was famous for being ever-ready to help other people and Letton Way is named after this friendly, hardworking man. In 1937 Shirley Bassey was born at Adeline Street. By the time she was 20, Shirley was starring in shows in London, Paris, Monte Carlo and also sang three title songs for the 'Bond' films.

During World War Two, the docks' decline was prolonged for a short time, as three quarters of American supplies came through here during the build-up to the D-Day landings.

Coal finally ceased to be exported from the docks in 1964, and West Dock, the first dock in South Wales, closed. The beautiful buildings quickly lost their powerful looks, and lapsed into decay with most of them being demolished. The film Tiger Bay, was shot mainly on location in 1959 and contains some of the final memories of that district.

The Norwegian Church was built in 1868 for the Scandinavian community near the West Dock and has close associations with Roald Dahl (he was Christened there) and his family. It was located a mile from its current position, but by the 1970s it had been seriously vandalised and what parts could be saved were moved, piece by piece, to its new location in 1990.

At the end of the 20th century, the waterfront started to see a massive regeneration. In the 1980s, County Hall, the council headquarters, was established at Atlantic Wharf overlooking the partially filled in former East Dock. The 1990's saw the building of the Cardiff Bay Barrage which when finished, would create a huge freshwater lake.

Notices about the possibility of raised groundwater levels in the southern areas of the City were delivered to every household. Over ten years later, it seems that the possibility of damage to homes was minimal

The initial worries about the barrage's effects have been replaced by feelings of pride and progress in how it has helped to rejuvenated Butetown and Tiger Bay.

The Pier Head Building, built in 1896 and originally the home to the Bute Docks Company, was taken over by the Welsh Assembly in the late 1990's. The Coal Exchange in Mount Stuart Square, was the venue where the world's first £1,000,000 (one million pounds) cheque was signed, and at present stages various events including boxing, concerts and award ceremonies.

The Millennium Centre was finished in 2004, and is the new home for the Welsh National Opera while on 1st March 2006 (St. David's Day).

Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II arrived in a snow covered Cardiff to open the new debating chamber (The dd) for the Welsh Assembly. There was public outrage over the cost of the new building, ultimately reaching £67 million.

There is no doubt however, that the development and conversion of Tiger Bay into Cardiff Bay, has given a new lease of life to Butetown.

The revived docklands have provided 20,000 jobs over the years, and when the regeneration is complete, the City of Cardiff will have one of the most attractive and cosmopolitan waterfronts in Europe.

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